Approaching the building, possibly the Magnum Opus of Frank Gehry’s career, is an unexpectedly emotional experience. Beginning with the childhood trope of, “Is it a bird, is it a plane…?” and continuing on to the discomfort of confronting extreme departures from form, the structure is composed of contradictions and surprises. Frank Gehry is an interventionist, […]
While the rest of the world drags itself out of bed at 4:00 a.m. to watch a bunch of guys haggle over tuna at Tsukiji Market, I am still fast asleep. After treating myself to a hot bath and an elegant Japanese breakfast, I will be ready to start my day. I’ll spend the day […]
Some women fall prey to Manolos, while others lose their heads (and 401K’s) to Chanel or Louis Vuitton. I’m just not that kind of girl. For me, it’s kitchen stuff – wasabi graters made of sharkskin, spoons and ladles, stoneware, katsuobushi shavers. Above all, carbon steel, given a final bump and grind, while you watch, […]
Ramen and other Asian noodles have become a contact sport in the United States. This is pretty much true of cooking and most other kitchen activities, once recognized as the domain of women. Just like the caves at Lascaux before Robert Bly got hold of ’em. Okay, the caves are ours. Always have been, always […]
The vast majority of visitors to Miyajima remain on the island for only a few short hours, a day trip from Hiroshima. Not venturing past the torii gate, paying their respects at Itsukushima, they return to the ferry terminal, stopping along the way to shop on lively Omotesando street with its restaurants, food stalls, and […]
After two weeks of running all over Japan, with more to follow, I chose to hang my yukata at an inn with private outdoor onsen, four of them, one in a cave, staying put to soak my feet but for hikes and walks through the countryside. My room also had its own indoor onsen. A […]
A very narrow alley, barely wide enough for two pedestrians side-by-side, running from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori, one block west of the Kayo River, Pontocho Alley is one of Kyoto’s most atmospheric dining streets. It offers a wide variety of dining options, from inexpensive yakitori to exclusive establishments requiring the right connections and a very fat […]
It is the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world. Of course, it is most famous for tuna carcasses weighing over 300 kilograms but the market handles more than 400 different types of seafood. From seaweed to caviar, and from the tiniest of sardines to whale, you can find it here. Tsukiji Market […]
I never get enough of Barcelona, even in the sweltering heat of July. I hear this is a city built for hedonists with pulsating clubs and designer cocktail bars. I’ve never experienced this Barcelona of night owls and vampires. I am more familiar with the Barcelona of Freddy Mercury and Monserrat Caballe, perhaps Rufus Wainwright. […]
The white-washed seaside village of Fornells could be just one more tourist trap on another island full of trapped tourists. But, because the people here are so kind and good-humored, and fiercely proud, an authentic experience of life on the island is easily within reach. There are also many outstanding restaurants, specializing in seafood from […]
magiecrystal 