In the Belly of the Whale, Louis Vuitton Foundation, Paris

Approaching the building, possibly the Magnum Opus of Frank Gehry’s career, is an unexpectedly emotional experience. Beginning with the childhood trope of, “Is it a bird, is it a plane…?” and continuing on to the discomfort of confronting extreme departures from form, the structure is composed of contradictions and surprises. Frank Gehry is an interventionist, […]

In the Shadow of Charlie, Paris

There are soldiers with guns positioned all over Paris, especially in the Marais where there are many Jewish businesses and synagogues. A very young soldier with a machine gun politely asked me not to take his photograph. So, I did not. These pictures of plaques commemorating murdered deportees and resisters are probably more appropriate, given […]

Barcelona, I Had This Perfect Dream

I never get enough of Barcelona, even in the sweltering heat of July. I hear this is a city built for hedonists with pulsating clubs and designer cocktail bars. I’ve never experienced this Barcelona of night owls and vampires. I am more familiar with the Barcelona of Freddy Mercury and Monserrat Caballe, perhaps Rufus Wainwright. […]

Fornells, Menorca

The white-washed seaside village of Fornells could be just one more tourist trap on another island full of trapped tourists. But, because the people here are so kind and good-humored, and fiercely proud, an authentic experience of life on the island is easily within reach. There are also many outstanding restaurants, specializing in seafood from […]